It is really unfortunate that Lonely planet, which is suppose to be a travel guide to the people all over the world, describes Chennai as a hot place with nothing to do. I condemn such an article. This is not to say that I absolutely love Chennai and that the article has hurt my feelings or any crap like that. But simply that this is an instance of irresponsible reporting. And I condemn it for this reason.
I remember my first few months in Chennai. They were really not that great. Not the kind of days to which I would like to go back. The article from Lonely Planet describes Chennai in a way I would have, had I left Chennai after first 6 months. But I stayed there for six years! I got a chance to know the city better and I, a girl from Bombay, started liking the place.
The following post is divided into three sections:
1. Specific criticisms about the Lonely Planet article.
2. Why is Chennai a good place to stay in?
3. What are the things about Chennai which could be changed for better?
1. Specific Criticisms
- Lack of data supporting the claims: The traffic is enormous as compared to what? Bombay? Are you kidding me? Hot as compared to what? Nagpur in summers? Or for that matter how much hotter as compared to the rest of south India? or the rest of India? Seems friendlier...is that suppose to be a consolation award that Chennai wins, which none who like Chennai could care less about? Yes, may be it is friendlier, but if you say that in a famous book, don't you think you need to give evidence of some sort? As it is, friendlier is a subjective thing and depends totally on one's personal experiences. I have found Bombay locals friendly too! And hindu temples highly unfriendly!
- Racist remarks: The actors are 'not that hot'. Is the hidden implication that they are not as handsome as north Indian actors? May I ask why? May be I am too fussy, but I do smell racism!
- Lack of deeper study in the matter: Hardly any proper nouns seem to pop up in the description. Among important places around and in Chennai hardly any are mentioned. A city usually is known from its historical locations, theatres, cultural hubs, temples, churches, beaches if any, mountains if any, market places. None of which are mentioned. I do not think the intent of the person who wrote was to hide these details. I feel he/she just didn't know about them! Should one not care to at least find out enough facts and details before writing such an article (based on which probably a lot of people will form their opinions)?
This is my take on Chennai. Note: this is not to serve the same purpose as the Lonely Planet article. And hence it will be more subjective with lesser statistical data. Also, many times I have talked about the city on this blog. And this therefore may be repetitive.
1. Food choices: In the disguise of being stereotypical when it comes to food choices, it takes a keen eye and a hungry stomach to spot almost all sorts of lovely cuisines in Chennai. Of course south indian food, which by the way is not just idli and dosa, is awesome:
- Tamil cuisine: these are only examples-- Dosa, idli, sweet and spicey polis (which can give a tough competition to Gud poli and aloo paratha respectively), pongal (which I personally don't like but many of my relatives loved it, in spite of they being from north of India!), mor kozhumbu (which anyone who likes kadhi must like), Adai avial (yummm!!), Mysore pak (a ghee based sweet which I wonder why a Punjabi who likes besan ka laddu made the Punjabi way cannot like), tarattu pal (which is even better than kalakand).
- Andra messes: pickles, podis, another sort of dosas, netali fry, prawn and chicken biryani,
- Kerala style: river fish preparations, vindalus, serian dishes, appams (amazing if made well). (Not too much of Karnataka style, I must say.)
- Seafood places: Go to any beach in the evening and you will get amazingly good sea food ranging from prawn, various sea fishes to squids and crabs. These are of course the cheaper options. The middle range places will serve good south indian style seafood. If you wish to try exotic then you will also get continental style preparations. If you wish to spend and are also bold, try octopus served in a Korean place near Nandanam. I think Chennai is also the only city where you will get a lobster for 200rs!! (yes you heard me right)
- Chinese places: Of course all are Indian Chinese, so nothing very authentic if you wish to spend less. But this is anyway the taste we Indians are used to. For that, many places ranging from 100 per head to 800 per head.
- Deserts: On the roadside you will find many cakes and chikkis which are dirt cheap. Also vendors walking around with some white colored thing that tastes sweet and resembles the pink cotton-like thing we get for much higher prices. If you wish to eat something expensive there are many many many places. In fact, just contact me and tell me what you feel like eating. And I will tell you a place to buy it from!
- the list goes on....
3. Churches and temples: I am really not a person for churches and temples. I didn't visit any. But those who like them, there are plenty of choices for you. I have heard many are very huge and historically important.
4. Cinema, music, dance: Many cinema halls, multiplexes, theatres. The city houses many important artists and invites even more talent during the months of December and January. Those who like dances and music lead a busy life during these months. Even through the year, there are plenty of events. There are many local theatre groups that take up current issues and build a script around those. Given a week, you will get at least 2 good events of your choice, if you are of the type.
5. Cafes: This I would say is Chennai's highly understated feature. Even the coffee one gets at the roadside here, is better than the coffee one would find in a decent restaurant Bombay. Of course Vasanta Bhavan or Sri Krishna Sweets or Murugan idli shop's coffee is like heaven. If you are the type who loves to sit with a huge cup of coffee in a good open place there are 2-3 good places such as Amethyst, Mocha Mojo, Anokhi..etc. And mind you, unlike in Bombay these are not some exclusive celebrity hangout places. They are very much accessible to "not so hot"people like us.
3. What are the things about Chennai which could be changed for better?
- The city still loves to worship people not just gods. Of course, this isn't unique to Chennai, but I don't hesitate to say that this is a flaw.
- Second hand book stores are very few. I have to buy very expensive books if I care to read anything other than popular. I wonder why there ain't any good second hand stores? Am I less informed? I doubt it, because I tried to find and found just one mediocre shop on Anna Salai.
- Public transport: The geography of the city demands that there should be more buses and some more train routes. Usually to reach a place A from place B needs you to change trains and buses at least twice. Can it not be made better? Due to lack of these, the auto rickshaw drivers form a monopoly. Once transport is made better they will also become less obnoxious.
- Mosquitoes: Recently the mosquito menace has tormented the city. People are talking about curbing this. I hope they do find some solutions.
- If the high-way project goes through, many fishermen villages will be evacuated for good and a huge stretch of lovely beaches and Theosophical society's campus will suffer. This will really be terrible and I hope every proud Chennai-ite tries to save this from dirty politicians.
- Pubs, night life and recent movies: Pubs and night life is less. It is increasing and so is rash driving etc. But in any case, a city can have what a city can have. Why not, I say! Also not too many english movies release in the city.

4 comments:
I love you for writing this post. I love that you were so objective about the Lonely Planet article while it was easy to throw swear words at them. :)
I also love that Madras has the ability to make a Bambaiyya fall in love with it. :)
Should it not be "intolerance at it's worst"? Also is there a way to subscribe to your blog or am I missing something? Of course you didn't mention kudamilagai paruppusili which is a bad miss on your part!
But you are going places ma! Commenting on krishashok and all! He is going to come here and comment, you wait and see!
@unpred: sanku sanku!!
@LKG: Oh!! If he does come here and comment, it will be awesome.
Movie : Notting Hill
Scene : Julia Roberts visits Hugh Grant's bookshop. He tell her when she (appears as if she made) makes the choice of a travel book on Turkey - (showing another book) 'Buy this. The person who wrote this book has actually visited Turkey'
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