Here is a blog entry after a long time. I want to write about lots of things. But first things first. I am just back from a trek to Himalaya. I present to you my experience in slightly strange, but hopefully readable format.
Q: What was the trek route?
A: We did a pass called Jalsu pass. Our brief travel itinerary is:
Day 1: Reach Baijanath by bus from Shimla. Take a jeep to Utrala. Camp the first night at Utrala near the dam on Binawa river.
Day 2: Walk for 7 hours from Utrala to Parai. Camp at Parai.
Day 3: Walk about 4 hours from Parai to upper Parai. Camp at upper Parai.
Day 4: Walk for about 4 hours to reach the top of Jalsu pass. Cross the pass and reach Yhara after a walk of about 3 hours. Camp at Yhara.
Day 5: Walk for about 7 hours to reach Naygram. End of trek. Take a bus to Lammu (15 km from Naygram).
Q: How many people went?
A: 7 of us, A, B, G, K, guide and guide's 15 year old son and yours truly .
Q: How much planning went into it?
A: Well, a lot less than last time. But some basic things that we did before leaving for the trek were:
1. Fix the guide - Jango ji.
2. Decide the food to be carried and buy it:
Rice and masoor dal, theplas, sugar, salt, (oil which we forgot but bought on the way!), .....
3. Buy medicines.
4. Arrange for thermals, woolens, tents, sleeping bag (rented from Bhagwan Singh), shoes.
Q: What were the weather conditions?
A: Weather was not exactly perfect. It everyday gave us a threat but somehow cleared up enough for us to trek. The best season for this trek is June. But well, summer for us is in May and you gotta go out!:) It was moderately cold and on the day of crossing the pass we encountered ice.
Q: Hardness of the trek?
I would rate it moderate. (The rating is from naive trekker's point of view. Modulo the weather condition the experts should find this one easy.)
Q: What were the high points of the trek?
Hard question to answer without getting carried away. So let me just get carried away. The best part of this trek was of course we were in Dhaula dhar ranges of the Himalaya once again. Every stage, every turn was like a curtain raiser for a totally different landscape. The scenic beauty was simply hypnotic. Also some river or the other was always twisting and turning along our path. Abundant water from streams, waterfalls and rivers, tall trees, medicinal trees, shepherds (Gaddi), and often challenging stretches of walk were the features of Jalsu pass.
Let me now start answering the question. (Didn't I say I was going to get carried away). The first day was mainly the bus travel. Almost no walking. The camp site was amazingly interesting. It was near a dam on the river Binawa. A shepherd's hut slightly ahead of our tents was where Jango-ji arranged for our dinner. The high point of this day was undoubtedly the Noori (desi daru) that the shepherd offered.
The second day was a lot of walking. The high point was the touch of cold blue river just before we reached our camping site. All along the day we were walking with the river, but still it was at a distance. But just before the end of this day, we had to reach the level of the water and cross the river over a small bridge. We rested near this point. If you can't believe that one can feel amazingly captivated when surrounded by noise, very likely you haven't tried sitting next to a river.
The third day started with a bad weather and everyone thought the day was going to be a rest day. But then around noon the weather cleared and walk began. The weather kept playing its games to screw the day. The prestigious title of 'the high point of the day' was taken away by the 'tashan' khichadi Jango-ji prepared for us in the most challenging weather and resource conditions. (Hey you all the beautiful landscapes, I am sorry. Yeah, really. We love you and you guys were great. But dark black clouds lurking behind your heads, you had a thin chance here.)
The fourth day, The day, was full of high points. (Literally so.) But to list a few, lovely weather and beautiful shining bright sun, a sudden encounter of a man with horse who helped us with one of our bags, reaching the top of the pass, sliding down one km of ice covered valley and being alive and in one piece after that, the camp site, the camp fire, the sound sleep. Aah what a day!
The fifth day, the most challenging by virtue of being the last day. (Every day tires you a little more and the last day is like a crunch). High point was that we successfully finished our trek. And in spite of being the last day, were in good humor and were enjoying ourselves totally. This day there was no camp site. We stayed at Jango-ji's cousin's house. We got a lovely room for ourselves, in which there were two windows each facing a large strong mountain. (B has taken so many snaps of it that I just refuse to say more about these windows and the views from them.)
Q: What were the goof ups?
A: Here comes the interesting part. Enough of all the goodness I say! So here.
The day before we were to leave for the trek, I sprained my leg. The morning of the journey my leg was swollen up. A doc in Delhi scared me to death and asked me to cancel trek. I ignored him and rest of the junta fully supported me. Pain killers and full support of these guys. That's how the trek started for me.
We forgot the rain cover at home. (Didn't pack it.)
Bus had a flat tire on the day of the journey.
First digital camera ran out of charge!
The first camp site was strategically bad for the morning duties. (Every stone was being watched by the watch towers set up to look over the dam! I know, damn!)
First day we were to get horse and porter and both decided to not show up! We divided all the weight among us for the rest of the trek. (A and yours truly escaped from carrying extra weight. We only had to carry our own bags.)
At the second camp site, the wind was so strong that the tent was set up with large stones for pegs.
The second night a bear killed a sheep just behind our tent and B had a thin escape. (Apparently!)
The next morning our tent flooded with rain water and we had to pack bags and quickly run into the shepherd's hut for a shelter.
When the walk finally started it was abruptly ended by bad weather and rain.
B ate up 4 plates of tashan khichadi and his tummy went on a toss.
The next day started with B's bad health and conked off second digital camera.
One km of sliding down the valley though a high point, was also a full snow fiasco. For we the most expert snow walkers experienced high resonance trebling of all our knees over this snow covered valley(G was probably the only one whose knees seemed strong!). If it wasn't for Jango-ji we might still be climbing down that valley.
Hundred and thirty one glaciers and seventeen hundred forty five waterfalls came our way and each of it ended up wetting our shoes and socks. (By now I am exaggerating. But samajha karo!)
Q: Any advice to trekkers?
A: Yes! Go trekking in June for Jalsu pass. Start the pass from Dharmshala or Manali. Don't rely on horses. In this region, it seems that you can not arrange for horses as you go along. Either try to book them before hand or else decide to carry most of your luggage by yourself. Wood is abundant, so you needn't carry fuel or stove along. Even in June, the valley after the pass will be covered with ice. Make sure your shoes are good.
Q: Snaps? We want to see it all!
A: I will put them up soon. .....
Q: What was the trek route?
A: We did a pass called Jalsu pass. Our brief travel itinerary is:
Day 1: Reach Baijanath by bus from Shimla. Take a jeep to Utrala. Camp the first night at Utrala near the dam on Binawa river.
Day 2: Walk for 7 hours from Utrala to Parai. Camp at Parai.
Day 3: Walk about 4 hours from Parai to upper Parai. Camp at upper Parai.
Day 4: Walk for about 4 hours to reach the top of Jalsu pass. Cross the pass and reach Yhara after a walk of about 3 hours. Camp at Yhara.
Day 5: Walk for about 7 hours to reach Naygram. End of trek. Take a bus to Lammu (15 km from Naygram).
Q: How many people went?
A: 7 of us, A, B, G, K, guide and guide's 15 year old son and yours truly .
Q: How much planning went into it?
A: Well, a lot less than last time. But some basic things that we did before leaving for the trek were:
1. Fix the guide - Jango ji.
2. Decide the food to be carried and buy it:
Rice and masoor dal, theplas, sugar, salt, (oil which we forgot but bought on the way!), .....
3. Buy medicines.
4. Arrange for thermals, woolens, tents, sleeping bag (rented from Bhagwan Singh), shoes.
Q: What were the weather conditions?
A: Weather was not exactly perfect. It everyday gave us a threat but somehow cleared up enough for us to trek. The best season for this trek is June. But well, summer for us is in May and you gotta go out!:) It was moderately cold and on the day of crossing the pass we encountered ice.
Q: Hardness of the trek?
I would rate it moderate. (The rating is from naive trekker's point of view. Modulo the weather condition the experts should find this one easy.)
Q: What were the high points of the trek?
Hard question to answer without getting carried away. So let me just get carried away. The best part of this trek was of course we were in Dhaula dhar ranges of the Himalaya once again. Every stage, every turn was like a curtain raiser for a totally different landscape. The scenic beauty was simply hypnotic. Also some river or the other was always twisting and turning along our path. Abundant water from streams, waterfalls and rivers, tall trees, medicinal trees, shepherds (Gaddi), and often challenging stretches of walk were the features of Jalsu pass.
Let me now start answering the question. (Didn't I say I was going to get carried away). The first day was mainly the bus travel. Almost no walking. The camp site was amazingly interesting. It was near a dam on the river Binawa. A shepherd's hut slightly ahead of our tents was where Jango-ji arranged for our dinner. The high point of this day was undoubtedly the Noori (desi daru) that the shepherd offered.
The second day was a lot of walking. The high point was the touch of cold blue river just before we reached our camping site. All along the day we were walking with the river, but still it was at a distance. But just before the end of this day, we had to reach the level of the water and cross the river over a small bridge. We rested near this point. If you can't believe that one can feel amazingly captivated when surrounded by noise, very likely you haven't tried sitting next to a river.
The third day started with a bad weather and everyone thought the day was going to be a rest day. But then around noon the weather cleared and walk began. The weather kept playing its games to screw the day. The prestigious title of 'the high point of the day' was taken away by the 'tashan' khichadi Jango-ji prepared for us in the most challenging weather and resource conditions. (Hey you all the beautiful landscapes, I am sorry. Yeah, really. We love you and you guys were great. But dark black clouds lurking behind your heads, you had a thin chance here.)
The fourth day, The day, was full of high points. (Literally so.) But to list a few, lovely weather and beautiful shining bright sun, a sudden encounter of a man with horse who helped us with one of our bags, reaching the top of the pass, sliding down one km of ice covered valley and being alive and in one piece after that, the camp site, the camp fire, the sound sleep. Aah what a day!
The fifth day, the most challenging by virtue of being the last day. (Every day tires you a little more and the last day is like a crunch). High point was that we successfully finished our trek. And in spite of being the last day, were in good humor and were enjoying ourselves totally. This day there was no camp site. We stayed at Jango-ji's cousin's house. We got a lovely room for ourselves, in which there were two windows each facing a large strong mountain. (B has taken so many snaps of it that I just refuse to say more about these windows and the views from them.)
Q: What were the goof ups?
A: Here comes the interesting part. Enough of all the goodness I say! So here.
The day before we were to leave for the trek, I sprained my leg. The morning of the journey my leg was swollen up. A doc in Delhi scared me to death and asked me to cancel trek. I ignored him and rest of the junta fully supported me. Pain killers and full support of these guys. That's how the trek started for me.
We forgot the rain cover at home. (Didn't pack it.)
Bus had a flat tire on the day of the journey.
First digital camera ran out of charge!
The first camp site was strategically bad for the morning duties. (Every stone was being watched by the watch towers set up to look over the dam! I know, damn!)
First day we were to get horse and porter and both decided to not show up! We divided all the weight among us for the rest of the trek. (A and yours truly escaped from carrying extra weight. We only had to carry our own bags.)
At the second camp site, the wind was so strong that the tent was set up with large stones for pegs.
The second night a bear killed a sheep just behind our tent and B had a thin escape. (Apparently!)
The next morning our tent flooded with rain water and we had to pack bags and quickly run into the shepherd's hut for a shelter.
When the walk finally started it was abruptly ended by bad weather and rain.
B ate up 4 plates of tashan khichadi and his tummy went on a toss.
The next day started with B's bad health and conked off second digital camera.
One km of sliding down the valley though a high point, was also a full snow fiasco. For we the most expert snow walkers experienced high resonance trebling of all our knees over this snow covered valley(G was probably the only one whose knees seemed strong!). If it wasn't for Jango-ji we might still be climbing down that valley.
Hundred and thirty one glaciers and seventeen hundred forty five waterfalls came our way and each of it ended up wetting our shoes and socks. (By now I am exaggerating. But samajha karo!)
Q: Any advice to trekkers?
A: Yes! Go trekking in June for Jalsu pass. Start the pass from Dharmshala or Manali. Don't rely on horses. In this region, it seems that you can not arrange for horses as you go along. Either try to book them before hand or else decide to carry most of your luggage by yourself. Wood is abundant, so you needn't carry fuel or stove along. Even in June, the valley after the pass will be covered with ice. Make sure your shoes are good.
Q: Snaps? We want to see it all!
A: I will put them up soon. .....
Comments
Truly attracted by striking flair of writing...Yes, starting with Covey's coinage...and with gentle flow of expressions...
Best wishes,
It may be worth contacting Jango-ji who was our guide. Look for my "first trek to himalaya" post for some contact details and general tips.
Hope this helps.
--Nutan.